How to Build a Hampton-Style Fence (Complete 2025 Construction Guide)

The Hampton-style fence has become synonymous with coastal elegance across Melbourne's bayside suburbs. From Hampton and Chelsea to the Mornington Peninsula, these classic timber fences combine traditional craftsmanship with modern durability. Whether you're renovating a heritage home in Sorrento or building new in Mount Eliza, this guide will walk you through every step of creating an authentic Hampton fence that will stand the test of time and coastal weather.

Building your own Hampton fence is a rewarding weekend project that adds substantial value and kerb appeal. With proper planning, quality materials, and attention to detail, you can achieve professional results at a fraction of the cost of hiring contractors—typically saving $3,000–$6,000 on a standard residential boundary.

What is a Hampton-Style Fence?

A Hampton-style fence is characterised by vertical timber pickets or slats mounted to horizontal rails, typically painted in crisp whites, soft greys, or coastal neutrals. The design draws inspiration from the beachside estates of the Hamptons in New York, adapted for Australian coastal conditions.

Key Design Elements

• Vertical pickets: 70mm × 19mm or 90mm × 19mm dressed pine or hardwood slats
• Spacing: 10–20mm gaps between pickets for airflow and shadow lines
• Post sizing: 90mm × 90mm or 100mm × 100mm treated pine posts
• Capping: Flat-top or bevelled capping rail (optional but recommended)
• Height: Typically 1.2m–1.8m for front boundaries, up to 2.0m for rear
• Finish: Multiple coats of premium exterior paint (often Dulux Weathershield or Taubmans Endure)

Colour Palette

Hampton fences traditionally feature:

• Classic White: Vivid White, Natural White, Lexicon Half
• Soft Greys: Surfmist, Hog Bristle, Shale Grey
• Coastal Neutrals: Limed White, Dune, Whisper White
• Feature Tones: Monument, Deep Ocean (less common but striking with Colorbond Monument houses)

Pro tip: Match your fence to your home's window frames or Colorbond roofing trim for a cohesive look. Many Rosebud and Dromana properties pair Hampton timber fences with Colorbond privacy screens for a modern hybrid aesthetic.

Materials & Tools You'll Need

Bill of Materials (15m fence, 1.5m high)

• Posts: 6× 90mm × 90mm × 2.4m H4 treated pine posts (~$18–$25 ea)
• Rails: 12× 70mm × 35mm × 2.4m treated pine rails (~$8–$12 ea)
• Pickets: 80× 70mm × 19mm × 1.65m dressed pine pickets (~$3.50–$5 ea)
• Capping (optional): 15m of 90mm × 19mm capping rail (~$6/m)
• Post mix concrete: 6 bags × 20kg rapid-set (~$12/bag)
• Fixings:
  • 1kg 75mm galvanised jolt-head nails or 10g × 75mm stainless screws (rails to posts)
  • 1kg 50mm stainless steel lost-head nails (pickets to rails)
  • 100mm galvanised coach screws if using hardwood posts
• Primer: 4L exterior timber primer (~$45–$65)
• Paint: 10L premium exterior low-sheen (2–3 coats; ~$90–$140/4L)
• Spacers: 12mm or 16mm offcuts for consistent picket gaps

Estimated materials cost: $1,200–$1,800 for 15m DIY fence (excludes tools/paint equipment).

Essential Tools

• Post-hole digger or powered auger (hire ~$80/day)
• Spirit level (1200mm minimum)
• String line & pegs
• Tape measure & pencil
• Circular saw or mitre saw
• Drill/driver with 3mm & 10mm bits
• Hammer (if using nails)
• Paintbrushes & roller (75mm angled brush essential for picket edges)
• Safety gear: gloves, eye protection, dust mask

Planning & Council Requirements in Victoria

Fence Height Regulations

In Victoria, most residential fence heights are governed by the Fences Act 1968 and local council overlays:

• Front boundary: Typically 1.2m maximum without a permit (some heritage overlays restrict further)
• Side/rear boundary: 2.0m standard; 2.4m allowable in some councils
• Corner blocks: Special sight-line rules apply—fences within 9m of an intersection may be limited to 1.2m

Important: Check your local council's planning scheme. Councils in Frankston, Mornington Peninsula Shire, and Bayside City have specific requirements. Visit your council's website or call before building.

Boundary & Neighbour Etiquette

• Survey pegs: Confirm your boundary with a licensed surveyor if unsure (~$600–$900)
• Fences Act notice: Legally required to serve a Notice of Intention to Fence on your neighbour 30 days before starting (even if you're paying 100%)
• Cost-sharing: By default, costs are split 50/50 unless you agree otherwise in writing
• Goodwill: Chat with your neighbour early—a friendly heads-up prevents disputes

Dial Before You Dig

Call 1100 or visit 1100.com.au at least 2 business days before digging post holes. This free service maps underground utilities (gas, water, electrical, NBN). Post holes typically go 600mm deep, which can intersect services.

Step-by-Step Building Guide

Step 1: Mark Out the Fence Line

1. Drive timber pegs at each corner and gate location
2. Run a tight string line between pegs at your intended fence height (use a line level)
3. Mark post positions every 2.4–2.7m (standard rail length)
4. Spray-mark the ground with marking paint

Step 2: Dig Post Holes

• Depth: 600mm minimum (700mm for 1.8m+ fences or sandy soils)
• Width: 300mm diameter (allows 100mm concrete collar around a 90mm post)
• Tip: Hire a one-man auger for $80/day—saves hours of manual digging

In coastal areas like Sorrento, you may hit sand or limestone. For sand, dig an extra 50mm deeper and compact the base with a few shovels of aggregate.

Step 3: Set the Posts

1. Brace the first post: Insert post, check plumb with spirit level on two adjacent faces, brace with timber stakes and screws
2. Pour concrete: Mix rapid-set post mix per packet instructions (usually 1 bag per post). Pour around post, leaving 50mm below ground level for topsoil/mulch
3. Re-check plumb before concrete sets (10–15 min working time)
4. Repeat for all posts, ensuring tops align with string line
5. Cure time: 24 hours minimum before attaching rails

Step 4: Install Horizontal Rails

• Rail placement: Top rail 150mm below post top; bottom rail 150mm above ground (prevents moisture wicking)
• Middle rail (for 1.5m+ fences): Centred between top and bottom
• Fixing: Drill 3mm pilot holes, use two 75mm galvanised screws per rail-to-post join, countersink slightly
• Joins: Always join rails on the centre of a post face, not mid-span

For longer runs, consider professional installation to ensure perfect rail alignment—this is where DIY fences often show imperfections.

Step 5: Cut & Prime Pickets

1. Measure & cut: Cut all pickets to final height (typically 1.5m for a 1.5m fence, allowing rails to sit 150mm from top/bottom)
2. Sand ends: Lightly sand cut ends and any rough faces with 120-grit
3. Prime all surfaces: Apply one coat of exterior primer to all six faces and both ends. Let dry 4–6 hours
4. Why prime first? Prevents moisture ingress from cut ends and ensures full coverage (painting after install misses picket backs)

Step 6: Attach Pickets

1. Start at a post: Fix first picket flush against post using two 50mm stainless nails per rail (top, middle, bottom)
2. Use spacers: Place a 12mm or 16mm offcut between pickets to maintain even gaps
3. Check vertical: Every 5th picket, check plumb with spirit level
4. Nail pattern: Offset nails slightly (one high, one low on each rail) to prevent timber splitting
5. Final picket: May need to rip down to fit—measure carefully before cutting

Pro tip: Work in sections of 2.4m (one panel) at a time. This lets you adjust spacing slightly if you notice alignment drift before completing the entire run.

Step 7: Install Capping (Optional)

A flat capping rail adds a polished look and protects picket end-grain from water ingress:

• Measure and cut 90mm × 19mm capping to span each panel
• Fix with 40mm lost-head nails every 300mm into picket tops
• Prime all faces before fixing

Step 8: Sand & Fill

1. Lightly sand the entire fence with 120-grit (removes primer dust and smooths any rough patches)
2. Fill nail holes with exterior wood filler (Selleys Spakfilla or similar)
3. Let dry, then sand flush

Step 9: Prime Again (Optional but Recommended)

A second coat of primer on exposed end-grain and filler patches ensures maximum paint adhesion and longevity—especially critical in salt-spray zones like the Mornington Peninsula.

Step 10: Paint (2–3 Coats)

1. Coat 1: Apply first topcoat with a 75mm angled brush for picket edges, roller for flat faces. Work in sections to maintain a wet edge. Dry time: 2–4 hours
2. Coat 2: Second coat after 6–8 hours. This is your minimum for exterior durability
3. Coat 3 (coastal areas): Apply a third coat to seaward-facing fences or high-exposure locations (Sorrento, Rosebud, Hampton)
4. Paint brand tip: Dulux Weathershield or Taubmans Endure offer 15-year warranties in coastal conditions when applied per specs

Step 11: Clean Up & Cure

• Avoid touching fence for 24 hours
• Full cure: 7–14 days (avoid heavy contact or gate slamming)
• Backfill around posts with topsoil or mulch, ensuring water drains away from post bases

Costs & Timeline

DIY Cost Breakdown

Item	Cost (15m fence)
Timber (posts, rails, pickets)	$850–$1,150
Concrete & fixings	$120–$180
Primer & paint	$180–$280
Tool hire (auger)	$80
Misc (spacers, brushes, filler)	$60–$80
Total DIY	$1,290–$1,770

Per-metre cost: $85–$118/m (DIY labour not costed)

Professional Installation

Hiring a licensed fencing contractor typically costs:

• Supply & install: $150–$280 per metre depending on height, finish quality, and site access
• 15m fence: $2,250–$4,200 fully installed
• Add-ons: Gates (+$800–$1,500), capping rail (+$15–$25/m), heritage detailing (+10–20%)

Get a free quote from The South East Fencer—we service Mornington, Mount Eliza, Frankston, and the entire Peninsula with transparent pricing.

Timeline

• Planning & materials: 1–2 days
• Digging & posts: 1 day (+ 24hr cure)
• Rails & pickets: 1 day
• Priming & painting: 2–3 days (allowing dry times)
• Total: 5–7 days elapsed for a typical 15–20m DIY fence (2–3 full weekends)

Coastal Durability: Making It Last

Mornington Peninsula, Hampton, and bayside locations experience salt spray, high UV, and moisture cycling. To ensure your Hampton fence lasts 15+ years:

1. Use Stainless Steel or Hot-Dip Galvanised Fixings

Standard bright zinc screws rust within 2–3 years in coastal zones. Invest in marine-grade 316 stainless or at minimum, hot-dip gal (HDG) fasteners. Yes, they cost 3× more, but you won't be repainting rust stains.

2. Timber Selection

• H4-treated posts: Essential—ground contact rated
• Hardwood pickets: Spotted gum or merbau offer better rot resistance than pine (but cost 50–80% more and require different paint systems)
• Avoid H3 for rails: H3.2 LOSP (Light Organic Solvent Preservative) is minimum; H4 is better for exposed horizontal rails

3. Paint System Matters

• Always prime all six faces before assembly
• Use exterior-grade low-sheen (not gloss—shows imperfections and chalks faster)
• Refresh paint every 5–7 years (spot-prime any bare patches annually)

4. Post-Base Protection

Wrap post bases (below-ground section) with DPC (damp-proof course) membrane before concreting. This $2 detail prevents moisture wicking up from concrete into timber, extending post life by 5–10 years.

5. Drainage

Ensure bottom rails are at least 150mm above ground and slope away from fence. Pooling water is the enemy—more fences fail from rot than wind.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

1. Skipping the String Line

Eyeballing post heights leads to a wavy fence line. Always use a taut string line and check with a line level.

2. Painting Before Assembly

Painting fully assembled fences leaves picket backs unpainted, causing uneven weathering and moisture ingress. Always prime all faces before fixing.

3. Wrong Fastener Choice

Using interior screws or bright zinc fasteners in coastal areas guarantees rust stains within two years. Spend the extra $40 on stainless steel.

4. Inadequate Post Depth

Shallow posts (under 500mm) will lean within 12 months, especially in sandy soils. Go 600mm minimum, 700mm for tall fences or loose soil.

5. Not Treating Cut Ends

Every saw cut exposes untreated timber. Brush or dip cut ends in preservative (Basileum Green or Copper Naphthanate) before priming.

6. Uneven Picket Spacing

Inconsistent gaps ruin the clean Hampton aesthetic. Use a dedicated spacer block (cut from scrap) rather than guessing.

7. Installing Rails Flat

Horizontal rails should be fixed "on edge" (70mm face horizontal, 35mm vertical) for maximum strength. Flat rails sag within months.

DIY vs Hiring a Professional

When to DIY

• You have carpentry experience and the right tools
• The fence line is straight and level (no slopes or curves)
• You have 2–3 weekends to spare
• You're comfortable with quality trade-offs (a DIY fence rarely matches a pro finish)

When to Call The Pros

• Sloping or uneven ground (requires stepped posts or raked panels)
• Heritage overlays or strict council requirements
• You want a 10-year workmanship warranty
• Time-poor (pros complete in 1–2 days vs your 2–3 weekends)
• Adjoining a retaining wall or deck—complex fixing details

At The South East Fencer, we've built hundreds of Hampton fences across Mornington, Sorrento, and Frankston. Our licensed team handles council permits, boundary surveys, and delivers a painted, turnkey fence in 2–3 days. Request a free quote or call 03 4152 7766.

Related Fencing Options

Mix Hampton with Colorbond

A popular hybrid: Hampton timber front fence for street appeal, paired with Colorbond side/rear fences for low maintenance and privacy. We can design a cohesive look matching Colorbond colours to your paint choice.

Privacy Screens & Gates

Enhance your Hampton fence with:

• Timber or aluminium privacy screens for pool areas or courtyards
• Custom Hampton-style side gates (from $800 installed)
• Lattice toppers for extra height without a permit (check local rules)

Alternative Timber Fences

If Hampton's not your style, consider:

• Horizontal slat: Modern, clean lines (popular in Mount Eliza)
• Paling fence: Traditional Aussie overlapping palings—cheaper and faster
• Feature batten: Mixed widths for architectural interest

We offer fence repairs and restorations too—if your existing Hampton fence needs repainting or picket replacement, we can restore it to new condition.

Frequently Asked Questions

What height can I build a Hampton fence in Victoria?

Front boundaries are typically limited to 1.2m without a permit. Side and rear boundaries can generally be 2.0m, sometimes 2.4m depending on your council. Always check your local planning scheme—councils like Mornington Peninsula Shire and Bayside City have specific overlays, especially in heritage zones.

Do I need a permit for a Hampton fence?

Most standard boundary fences under 2.0m don't require a building permit, but you must still comply with the Fences Act 1968 (neighbour notification). Heritage overlays, significant trees, or coastal setbacks may trigger permit requirements. When in doubt, check with your council's planning department.

Should I use pine or hardwood for Hampton pickets?

Treated pine is standard—affordable, lightweight, and takes paint well. Hardwood (spotted gum, merbau) offers better rot resistance and can be oiled instead of painted, but costs 50–80% more and is heavier to work with. For coastal areas, either works if properly primed and painted.

What's the best picket spacing for a Hampton fence?

12mm gaps suit a more enclosed look (better privacy), while 16–20mm gaps create a lighter, more open feel with stronger shadow lines. For a classic Hampton aesthetic, 12–16mm is ideal. Avoid gaps under 10mm (restricts airflow, causes paint issues) or over 25mm (loses the Hampton style).

Can I paint a Hampton fence with a sprayer?

Yes, but brush the first primer coat to work it into the grain. Spray subsequent coats for speed, then back-brush to eliminate runs and ensure even coverage. Always spray before assembly if possible (gets all six faces cleanly). Mask off anything you don't want painted, and choose a calm day—overspray travels!

How do I stop my Hampton fence from warping?

Warping happens when moisture enters the timber unevenly. Prevent it by: (1) priming all faces before assembly, (2) sealing cut ends, (3) using kiln-dried timber where possible, (4) fixing pickets with two nails per rail (stops twisting), and (5) ensuring bottom rails are well clear of ground moisture. Some cupping is inevitable over time—it's timber, not plastic.

Who pays for a boundary fence under the Fences Act?

In Victoria, adjoining owners share the cost 50/50 by default, unless you agree otherwise in writing. You must serve a Notice of Intention to Fence 30 days before starting. If your neighbour doesn't respond or agree to pay, you can still build, but disputes may need Magistrates' Court or VCAT resolution. Practically, many owners pay 100% if they want a style the neighbour doesn't (like an expensive Hampton vs a cheaper paling).

What's the best paint for a coastal Hampton fence?

Use a premium exterior low-sheen acrylic designed for coastal exposure:

• Dulux Weathershield: 15-year warranty, excellent UV and salt resistance
• Taubmans Endure: Similar performance, slightly cheaper
• Haymes Solashield: Another quality option, widely available

Avoid interior paints or cheap exterior paints—they'll chalk and peel within 2–3 years on the Peninsula. Apply 2–3 coats over a proper primer.

Can I install a Hampton fence on a slope?

Yes, using either stepped or raked panels. Stepped panels (each section drops in height) maintain vertical pickets but create a staircase profile—traditional and easier. Raked panels follow the slope continuously but require angled cuts on every picket—harder to execute. For steep slopes, hire a professional (we've done hundreds of sloped fences across Rosebud and Dromana).

How long does a Hampton fence last?

With proper materials and maintenance, 20–30 years. Expect to repaint every 5–8 years (more frequent in direct salt spray). Posts often outlast pickets—if pickets rot or you want a style change in 15 years, you can replace them while keeping the original post-and-rail structure.

Get a Professional Quote

Building a Hampton fence yourself is rewarding, but if you'd rather leave it to the experts, The South East Fencer delivers premium Hampton and timber fencing across Melbourne's bayside and Mornington Peninsula. We handle everything—council permits, neighbour liaison, quality materials, expert installation, and a 10-year workmanship warranty.